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Wednesday, December 21, 2011
i made a dress from string @ 12:12 AM
I haven't written a single thing since October-- shortly after Boyfriend's birthday-- due to an onset of late-October midterms and the blind rush toward finals.
It happens. I'm graduating! Horray! etc.
I wove seven yards of fabric, dyed it and sewed it into a dress. It happened! It came out fairly well under the circumstances. (Read: I'd never sewn before, done batik or woven at such a length+width+high EPI). All things being equal, it went along without too many problems. For the sake of being precise I'm just going to vomit up information about the project now, okiedokie?
The pattern was
Butterick B5605 and it was pretty complicated for someone who had never sewn a single thing before-- like, my previous attempts involved fixing small tears and reattaching buttons. I did not know how to sew in a straight line or how to wind a bobbin.
Initially I planned to do woven shibori, following along with a book by
Catharine Ellis but the width of the piece I was weaving (35" at reed) & the overall length (7 yards) meant that all of the knots I was going to need to tie = a bad idea. Ikat, another method I've... well, DONE before...? I didn't feel like I could confidently create a pattern across the entire fabric that I'd be happy with at the end.
So, in a fit of frustration (sometime in November) I dropped $50 on batik supplies and went to town. It went pretty well. A few (stupid) tension issues that were caused by incorrectly rolling on the tencel the first time, but I just rolled all of my yarn onto my cloth beam and retied at the back-- the remaining yardage had no further tension issues.
Blah blah blah THE RESULTS:
naptime forever! I probably won't be weaving my own fabric with intention of sewing it into a dress again anytime soon, but the process was fun! I am mostly excited to resume weaving long rectangles (without cutting them apart...).
Labels: batik, dress, weaving VI, whine
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Dress-Time & Shibori Time Warp @ 5:26 PM
So, here is the state of things:
Dyes: Ordered
Yarn: Ordered
Dress-Mock-Up: Reasonably assembled
This is a horrific, headless duplicate of the dress as seen on the pattern package. You should be glad I chose to write 'deep teal' over that hand as my lazy tracing job had it looking like a pterodactyl claw. Whatever the sad, congenital deformity the model has is irrelevant, though, as I've decided to go with an over-all teal color to the dress. I thought about doing an overall ikat pattern, because ikat is
so freaking trendy right now, but do you know how that is DONE? I won't get into that right now, I probably will some other day, but I don't think I've the patience or ability to take on a full-blown ikat dress during a four month class... especially when I need to, y'know, pass. Oh, and I need these three credits hit the happy 120 credit requirement in order to graduate. #collegestudentpettyproblems
ANYWAY, I decided to do shibori. I'll be doing dye-washes on Tuesday/Wednesday and pictures will be forthcoming then... I'm just wading into the world of 'real shibori' so I'm a bit tentative.
My previous shibori foray was limited to the quick & dirty woven shibori. That being, where a supplementary weft is used and and tightened across the whole of the woven piece-- the 'rope' of cloth is then painted or dipped into a dye bath. After the dye sets and is washed away, the supplementary weft is removed and the pattern is revealed. You can read more about it around the internet,
this page provides some good visuals. Woven Shibori is similar to traditional shibori visually, but since it is done on the loom it has less freedom than the traditional method.
Uh, traditional shibori uses knots, a needle, and sometimes objects and wood-blocks in order to achieve the pattern. It is all done by hand after the fabric is woven. This is the game I'll be playing. I want the dress to have a graphic pattern, something bold and eye-catching. The dress will be given a wash of a quarry/stone blue and then I'll play with the shibori pattern. I'll then over-dye the fabric in a bold teal.
My first shibori attempt was when I took a course on dyeing here at BSU in Summer 2010. It was pretty fantastic: We don't have the studio space to use sinks/tables during the regular semester, so having the student interest at the time to get a summer class to run was a pretty great thing. I wove a series of three shibori scarves, each in varying shades of indigo, and for my first attempt they came out quite well. A pair of them were accepted into the 2011 Student Exhibition at BSU, and one of those was also published within
The Bridge, BSU's Art/Literary Journal. The third scarf was never published, it was the lightest in color. I mailed it out as a thank you gift to the woman who sold me my loom. She was a dear thing. ♥
Blah blah blah.
Each scarf was woven using the same white 8/2 cotton warp. I believe the sett was 24, but its been a while. The scarf on the left used the same 8/2 cotton for the weft, the center scarf used a light blue 8/2 tencel, and the darkest scarf used a pale grey 8/2 cotton. The pattern for the shibori was a bronson lace. I love bronson lace.
That center scarf is *so much softer* than the other two that I sort of fell in love with tencel, haha. It made such a difference in that particular scarf that I've been eager to play with it again since.
wheeeeeeeee.
Labels: dress, shibori, weaving VI
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Weavin' the dream folks, just weavin' the dream. @ 1:45 AM
I'm going to weave a dress.
Well, if everything goes according to plan and it doesn't turn out to be a dismal failure, then sure: I'll weave a dress. Otherwise I'll be mass-producing some very unattractive coin purses for the upcoming holiday season.
I decided a few weeks ago to go with this pattern. It's
Retro Butterick B5605. I can't sew. I should mention that right now: I make fabric and
cannot sew. I don't know how to really turn on a sewing machine, threading the needle is unnecessarily difficult, and once I manage all of that I have an incredibly hard time sewing in a straight line. I'm in the process of a muslin mock-up of the dress and I've put my chips on sewing having a steep learning curve.
I've been watching a lot of How-To-Sew videos on Youtube make it look a lot easier than it really is. Along those lines, this new found fascination with sewing has left me incredibly impressed with craft bloggers: how do these people quilt? Sew their perfectly coiffed little children charming clothes? Craft bloggers live in some idealized alternate reality where no one has to say "oh no my bobbin smells like burning".
Anyway, I am sure I'll be fine. The dress pattern is just precious and I'm sure that if all else fails I can find a nice old lady to help me.
I'm still in the planning stages as far as colors and junk go: I did order a few Procion Dyes from
PRO Chem and will be playing around with Shibori as soon as they arrive and I finish weaving up a sample warp (cotton, 9" wide/28 EPI). I'm sort of playing it by ear for now since the school's studio doesn't have tencel or bamboo at the weights I'm interested in, so I'm just making the most of the cotton while I click aimlessly around
WEBS for hours on end. #productive
ok as far as dyes go i only bought three colors because thats all my thirty dollar art student fee could afford me. ... but I'm going to get a few more if these aren't to my liking. Conveniently enough, both PRO Chem & WEBS are in Massachusetts so I don't really need to worry about shipping time. The dyes I chose seem a bit ugly but I figure the different dilutions/mixes will yield something worth looking at. Maybe.
Since its Shibori, too, I'll likely dye the whole fabric a pale teal and then do a more concentrated wash over it afterward.
blah blah blah, I invited boyfriend to watch me weave my sample cloth at school today. I wish I knew why my hand was on that side of the beater when this was taken, haha.
Labels: dress, weaving VI